Old Apple Tree
Some
say that it is the "oldest apple tree" in the Northwest. Some
even say it may be the oldest on the west coast.
That may still be in dispute. Whatever the story, all the
tales about Vancouver's apple tree are interesting and share
a lot of facts.
It all started at a party in London...A lady at a farewell
dinner party for Lieut. Emilius Simpson, the cousin of Hudson's
Bay governor Sir George Simpson, playfully put the seeds of
her desert apple into his waistcoat pocket. She asked him
to plant them when he arrived at his destination on the other
side of the world.
Emilius
Simpson arrived in Vancouver in November of 1826 and was soon
invited to dine with Dr. McLoughlin in the stockade on the
present Deaf School site. During the evening he absentmindedly
stuck a finger into his waistcoat and discovered the seeds.
Dr. McLoughlin, Simpson and Pierre C. Pambrun planted the
apple seeds in small boxes which were put under glass. Dr.
McLoughlin kept the boxes in the store where they could not
be touched.
The
apple tree was planted outside the fort when he felt it could
survive. Around 1830, Washington's first apple harvest occurred.
It was here in Vancouver, and produced one apple. The apple
tree has produced a crop every year, although most trees of
its kind only live 50-70 years. The "old apple tree" is now
about 170 years old.
It
has survived many trials, the city's flood of 1894, the emergence
of the railroad, the choppers block in 1910, losing a limb
in the winter of 1950, the Columbus Day storm in 1962, and
freeway construction in more recent years.
There
is an apple tree festival each year which takes place in the
historical apple tree park.
Life Along The Riverfront Bore Fruit
By The Old Apple Tree - as told to BRIAN J. CANTWELL,
Columbian staff writer
Published: 08/16/1987
I
have seen a lot on this riverfront. There are probably as
many stories as drops of water in the Columbia.
And
that's a river that pumps more water in one day than the amount
of soda pop Americans guzzle in 17 years. The river drains
an area larger than France.
As
it passes, I sip a little myself, from the water table that
feeds the spongelike earth below my roots. I'm the Old Apple
Tree. I've seen a lot of the history of Vancouver and the
river. Floods, ice jams, storms. Bad times, good times, even
visits by Russians.
Which
goes to show this isn't just a story of flowing water. It's
a story of people, all sorts. Of nearly naked red men and
women of the Chinook tribe, gobbling salmon and summer berries
on the river bank as Gorge-funneled breezes cooled them.
Of
sweating Hawaiians, far from their plumeria-perfumed islands,
herding pigs and hauling wood for Fort Vancouver fur traders.
Of
homesick Texans and other transplants, taking a break from
welding World War II aircraft carriers to dangle their feet
from shipyard ways and ponder Mount Hood as they wolfed sandwiches
from metal pails.
A
lot of water has flowed beneath the Interstate 5 bridge since
it was built 70 years ago. But I was around long before the
bridge.
OK,
I wasn't here when Lewis and Clark paddled by. But those two
didn't actually land right here, although some people today
want to erect a statue of them climbing Vancouver's riverbank;
actually, so I've heard, the explorers stopped at Frenchman's
Bar, about six miles downriver, and Government Island, about
five miles upriver, on their round-trip to the Pacific. Close
enough?
I've
heard historians talk about it. I've been growing here since
about 1826, planted from seeds brought from England by a captain
at the fort, people say. So I'm about the oldest living thing
in the neighborhood. Maybe the oldest apple tree in the Northwest.
Even
if Lewis and Clark didn't stop right here in 1805, Meriwether
Lewis had some nice things to write about this spot on the
river: "This valley is indeed the only desirable situation
for a settlement which I have seen on the west side of the
Rocky Mountains."
He
must have craned his neck as he passed.
This
old tree put up with a lot those early days. Immediately to
my north was the center of Kanaka Village, a roughly hewn
collection of buildings housing rough-talking French Canadian
trappers, Englishmen, Scots, Hawaiians and various Native
Americans who worked around the Hudson's Bay Co. fort. They
were the types that picked a sapling's first apples when the
fruit was barely big enough to eat. The village was named
for the Hawaiians, called Kanakas in the slang of the day.
This
Kanaka Village, the first collection of homes outside the
fort's walls, was the historic nucleus of the city of Vancouver,
says Jim Thomson, the superintendent of today's Fort Vancouver
National Historic Site. Today, much of the village site is
almost buried under ribbons of concrete linking Interstate
5 and state Highway 14.
Before
all that, however, there was a glorious, unobstructed view
of the Columbia River and the ships moored at the fort's dock.
A pond once reached inland just east of where Who Song &
Larry's restaurant stands today. When you sit out on Who Song's
deck and sip a beer, imagine yourself on the dock where the
West coast's first steamship, the Beaver, once took on furs
for shipment to capitals of the world. Next to the dock was
a salmon house where Hudson's Bay Co. workers processed and
smoked salmon for shipment to the Orient.
After
1849, when the American military moved in and established
Vancouver Barracks, this dock eventually became the government
dock, where supplies where unloaded for what was once the
largest military post in the Pacific Northwest.
That
was the center of action on this strip of waterfront for many
years. Meanwhile, to the east where steel bridge girders are
forged and all sorts of materials recycled today at Columbian
Industrial Park, the land was farmed, first for the fort and
barracks, later by private owners such as Lowell M. Hidden.
Hidden
arrived from New England about 1864. In 1865, he bought 200
acres, stretching from the riverbank (now part of the industrial
park) up the hill to what is now Mill Plain Boulevard. His
grandson, Robert Hidden, a brickyard owner and guardian of
local heritage, describes the land as "2 feet of topsoil over
90 feet of gravel." The farm grew corn, potatoes, carrots
and hay.
I
watched the town develop around me all this time. A lot of
apples grew and fell. When Lowell Hidden first came here,
he might have stayed at Alta House, a hotel and boarding house
that stood on a high foundation amid mud at the river's edge.
It was near where the Interstate 5 bridge crosses today. Alta
House was a well-known hostelry where men in top hats and
women in corsets and bustles came to see touring troupes of
entertainers.
In
this waterfront history, perhaps the most significant event
- it definitely affected the waterfront's long-range future
- was construction in 1908 of the Spokane, Portland &
Seattle Railway. Its tracks paralleled the river and ran east
up the Gorge. The railroad had the dual effect of improving
access to the waterfront for industry while decreasing access
to the waterfront by the general public. The tracks, built
on a high dike safe from floods, created a barrier, diminishing
Vancouver's easy access to the river and blocking the beautiful
view.
For
the first time, I felt landlocked. The Vancouver waterfront's
future as a place for apple trees didn't look promising. To
make matters worse, a railroad spur was built just north of
me where coal was dumped in untidy heaps to supply the barracks.
My
view of the river was lost, so who am I to continue this tale?
I'm a survivor, a living thing of bark and sap that has lived
through all that Vancouver has lived through, as I've sat
at what has become the hub of transportation in Southwest
Washington. So let me tell you more.
The
next big change was the Interstate Bridge, constructed in
1917. It meant an end to ferry runs that had docked near the
same spot. About the same time, modern life established its
presence, as the first electrical substation was built to
serve Clark County. The building still stands, at the east
side of the bridge's north end.
With
1917 came World War I, and a flock of new troops to Vancouver
barracks. The barracks become headquarters for a military
sawmill operation, cutting Northwest spruce, light and strong,
that was then shipped from the government dock for the manufacture
of biplanes and other fighting planes that looped and buzzed
over the skies of Europe. Lucky they didn't want apple wood.
About
three miles east, boat building had come to my stretch of
waterfront about 1900 at a lovely cove along a grassy shore
immediately west of what is now Wintler Park. The site today
is home to Tidewater Barge Lines. Work there has included
repair and maintenance of boats and barges, and construction
of small boats and tugboats.
World
War I brought more boat works. G.M. Standifer Construction
Co. built a yard with six ways in 1917 to build wooden ships
for the war effort. The yard was immediately west of the Interstate
Bridge, where the Inn at the Quay stands today. Standifer
built ships with odd names, such as the Moosabee and the Benzonia.
Standifer built another yard, to construct steel ships, just
downstream from the railroad bridge, about a mile to the west.
Standifer closed the shipyards in 1921.
Once
someone whispered the words "boat building" here, it was as
if that pursuit were somehow stamped genetically into the
soil of this shoreline. I'm surprised I haven't grown apples
with a bow and a stern. It took only two more words to alter
this town's future forever: Pearl Harbor.
The
Hiddens still farmed their riverfront, along with neighbors,
the Boss family, next door to the east, when Henry Kaiser
came to see them in 1942. The government had tapped Kaiser,
whose credentials as a miracle builder were established at
Bonneville and Grand Coulee dams and elsewhere, to build ships,
lots of them, to fight a war America intended to win.
Kaiser
chose Vancouver as the site for one of his shipyards. He bought
about 100 acres from the Boss family. He leased about 100
acres from the Hiddens for $300 a month, about the same income
earned by the farm.
The
Kaiser shipyards changed the face of the waterfront. A dozen
ship ways were built, where Liberty ships, the slow but sturdy
merchant ships that carried troops and arms, small aircraft
carriers (called "baby flattops") and other warships were
launched with unprecedented speed. Plans for the shipyards
were announced in January 1942, and the first ship was launched
that July. You can still see the ship ways from the river,
or if you stand out on the dock at Marine Park. Some of the
big, old buildings at Columbia Industrial Park were the original
shipyard structures.
The
shipyards also brought newcomers by the thousands to town.
Vancouver, my quiet hometown of 18,000 people in 1941, swelled
with migrations of job-hungry people from every corner of
the nation. The population tripled within two years. By January
1944, the population of "the Vancouver metropolitan area"
was 95,000, according to a Vancouver Housing Authority history.
At the peak of employment, 38,000 people worked at the shipyards.
When a trainload of new workers arrived from Brooklyn and the
Bronx, The Columbian took it upon itself to remind longtime
residents that these too were Americans, even if they did
say "dese" and "dose" and wore their hats while they ate.
New
houses and apartments rose like weeds after a spring rain,
across the city and near the riverfront. Hudson House, a collection
of seven dormitories with 5,018 beds, stood where Portco Corp.
and the Marine Park picnic area exist today.
At
the height of production, work never stopped on the ships.
Early in the morning or late at night, you could hear the
roar of construction. It was enough to shake my apples, like
the continuous roar from race cars at Portland International
Raceway. They were exciting times, though. I saw a lot of
important people drive by, such as Eleanor Roosevelt, the
first lady, here in April 1943 to christen the Alazon Bay,
the yard's first aircraft carrier. About 75,000 people came
to watch.
By
the time shipbuilding ceased at the yards in 1946, the production
record stood at 10 Liberty ships, 30 tank-landing ships, 50
escort aircraft carriers, 31 attack transports, 12 C-4 troop
ships, eight C-4 cargo vessels and two 14,000-ton dry-docks.
That's 141 military ships in less than 44 months.
The
shipyards left a legacy of industrial use on a big stretch
of the riverfront. A hydrogen peroxide plant rose in 1951
on the site of a shipyards parking lot west of today's industrial
park. FMC Corp. operated the plant until it closed in 1983.
Down
my way, next to the river, the government dock became a Coast
Guard station during World War II. A Coast Guard buoy tender,
the 100-foot Bluebell, docked there until it moved to Portland
in 1973. The city's Waterfront Park is there now.
Next
door, a sand, gravel and ready-mix concrete plant, operated
variously by Pacific Building Materials Co. and Vancouver
Ready-Mix, sat on the river bank from about 1940 until the
plant's demolition in 1975 to make way for two restaurants,
now The Chart House and Who-Song's.
For
me, the best and worst things happened in the last five years.
The state reconstructed the interchange of state Highway 14
and Interstate 5, and the city built a park around me. It's
about time.
Highway
ramps and railroad tracks almost wiped me out. People even
talked about digging me up and moving me elsewhere. But they
finally decided to build the highway around me.
Come
visit my park. You get here via Columbia Way and a connecting
pedestrian tunnel beneath the railroad. Come on a hot, sunny
afternoon and it'll probably be just you and me, surrounded
by a brick patio dotted with fallen green apples. But we'll
never really be alone. Over the top of a concrete wall 10
paces away, you'll glimpse chrome stacks of belching diesel
trucks, downshifting on the curving ramp onto Highway 14 and
spitting black smoke as they pass.
A
sudden shadow from a whistling jet overhead is another reminder
that it's not a world of fur trappers and canoes anymore.
The
best thing about my new park? The tunnel. It's lined up just
right so that I glimpse sparkles of waves on the Columbia
and watch tugboats churn upriver. It's like a little bit of
freedom restored. To me, the river is Americana, like motherhood,
baseball and hot dogs.
Did
you mention apple pie? Don't be gauche.
|